Even though the traditional preparations are exceptional — like achingly very good Dungeness crab and tender firefly squid — Mr. Tsukasaki can be increasing the Edomae sushi vocabulary with dishes like lean tuna belly with housemade soy milk and shio koji. Brian GallagherVirtually a single year in, landing a reservation at Kwame Onwuachi’s Li

And what pizzas they are, created on slender but durable seventeen-inch crusts which have been leavened with wild yeast. The thrill comes from a rotating Solid of toppings that might include things like pork meatballs, chile and yard mint, or confit cherry tomatoes, caramelized onion and ricotta with pops of fresh environmentally friendly coriander